Sunday, October 30, 2011

Risk and Reward

Getting off the couch, as Lain and I started planning Archipaddlo all those many months ago, we knew we were taking many risks, and the outcome, let alone the rewards, was uncertain. During our paddles in Indonesia we have had to take quite a few leaps of faith, big risks with uncertain outcomes, and in basically every case we have been rewarded handsomely.

Paddling close to a coastline is usually not so risky. If everything goes wrong you can just paddle (or swim) to the beach and even if you get smashed into shore by beating surf, the outcome would hopefully be positive. Indonesia, however, is an archipelago, and the coastlines don't all match up. Deep water, often over 1km deep within a few hundred metres of the shore, surges and swirls around causing roaring currents in often the most unpredictable places. Crossing between islands, or jumping across wide bays, where currents are at their strongest, places weary paddlers in the very real risk of being swept out to sea never to be seen or heard of again (well, we do have personal locator beacons so we should get found).

After a long day paddling along Gili Moyo off the coast of Sumbabwa we searched for a campsite but could find not a single decent tent site. It was late in the day and we were already tired but we took the risk to paddle an extra 10km to Pulau Satonda, across a wide strait. We paddled hard through the current for just under two hours, to slide up, exhausted, onto a rocky beach just as the sun set. To our surprise a few minutes later a brawny, bronzed Mexican paddled up to us on a stand-up paddle board. Ramon was a divemaster on a live-aboard dive boat anchored in the next bay and when he asked if we needed anything we politely declined. Ten minutes later however, Ramon returned in a dingy with an icy cold six pack of beer for us. We gladly accepted Ramon's kindness and enjoyed our reward as we watched the sun set over the rippling strait.

On a hot day in Flores we set ourselves a bold goal of paddling 50km or so to find the small town of Wodong that apparently had some tourist infrastructure. Desperate for supplies and food we paddled well out to sea past many towns including sprawling Maumere and another town which had a bustling market right on the waterfront. Headwinds rattled us, the heat was exhausting and we paddled past beach after beach of perfect campsites but we took the risk and pressed on. Turning into the tiny bay that according to our map, was supposed to be Wodong, we saw nothing but mangroves and collapsed on the beach, dejected that our efforts were not rewarded. Shortly afterwards I walked down the beach to discover that we had landed about 100m away from a perfect little resort with comfy cabins overlooking the water. Our risk was again rewarded and we spent an extra day recuperating in the comparative luxury of our cabin.

The Alor Strait, separating the islands of Lembata and Pantar is about as risky as any paddling we could hope to achieve in Indonesia. Roaring currents surge unpredictably through the straight and many local fishermen die here being swept north into an endless expanse of warm ocean. Crocodiles thrive in the mangroves and sharks teem in the rich, deep water where whales are unfortunately still hunted. Our first attempt crossing the strait, a 14km crossing to Pulau Lapang, resulted after just 15 minutes, in us being swept so far out to sea that it took nearly an hour to crawl back to the windswept coast of Pulau Lembata. It would have been easier to just aim for the coast of Pulau Pantar but we were determined to make our way to the smaller and more remote islands in the strait. We watched the currents for 24 hours until we felt we had a window of opportunity, and we raced across the strait in the nick of time. Pulau Lapang was an almost treeless and totally flat expanse of coarse, sharp, rocky limestone. One tiny beach hid beneath the shade of some fig and tamarind trees and we took the opportunity to rest here for a day. The real reward for our risky crossing was the treat that lay waiting for us underwater. The snorkelling here was not just the best we have seen in Indonesia, it was by far the best snorkelling either of us had ever seen. A vertical wall of coral, rich with colourful sponges, iridescent gorgonian fans and huge fish dropped into a deep blue abyss. Huge numbers of fish schooled around us as we duck dived repeatedly down into the depths. It was simply breathtaking. No wonder this area is renowned as having some of the best diving in the world.

Risk and reward. These are just a few of the so many rewards we have been fortunate to receive during our travels. The greatest reward though is simply being here and completing this adventure, a reward we could never have found had we not taken the risk to leave in the first place. Your rewards are there waiting, what are you willing to risk to get them?

Photo: Juz enjoying the rewards on offer on Pulau Lapang.

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